Campo Maior is a frontier town, at its closest point only seven kilometres from Spain, and because of this location it has played an important part in Portugal’s history, particularly during the Spanish Succession and Peninsular Wars. Its townsfolk are solid, resourceful people who have been through more than their fair share of hardship and tragedy – and to better understand their story, a visit to Campo Maior castle is a must.

While giving a hand to a friend who lives close to the Estremoz castle we found a 15th century coin from the reign of D. Afonso V. The coin surfaced when digging out the footings of a garden wall. Laughingly my partner put it in his pocket saying he’d just found a medieval coin. Little did we know he was right and we had found treasure.

I recently bought half a butternut squash (mogango) from the local supermarket in Estremoz and was dismayed when I got home to see that it came all the way from South Africa! Why? When Portugal, and especially the Alentejo, produces pumpkins and squash in the millions. Annoyed with myself for not checking the label, I decided that having bought a vegetable with such a humungous footprint I would just have to make the most of it. Luckily for me, I follow a UK garden expert on Instagram who knows what he’s doing…

Anyone who follows us on Facebook or Instagram will soon see that we are lovers of vintage bikes and old cars…in fact anything that is pre-computerised motors and can be tinkered with and fixed by a humble mechanic. So, we were more than happy to find that in Estremoz, and practically in all small towns and larger villages of the Alentejo, there are motor enthusiast clubs that are going strong…

Our second road trip in April 2024 took us north to Nisa and surroundings in upper Alentejo. We hadn’t set out to make a major trek but while visiting the tourist office we picked up a leaflet and map of PR9 Trilho da Mina de Ouro do Conhal (Hike of the Roman Gold Mines), which sets out from a little village called Arneiro close to the Rio Tejo that divides the Alentejo region from Beira Baixa.